Wave Maker Corals

September 14, 2009 3:38 pm | Uncategorized

(2) 1300 GPH Coral Aquarium Fish Pump Wave Makers Powerhead

$19.95

Welcome to Best Choice Products. Do you want a clear and revitalizing aquarium tank? No Need To Look Further. We are proud to introduce to you this brand new Lot of (2) 1300 GPH AQUARIUM WAVE MAKER POWERHEAD PUMP. It will fit all aquarium fish tanks up to 200 Gallons. This dynamic and fully submersible wave maker comes with suction cups and ball joint, which provide 360 rotations to expand water …

There is no doubt at all that Cuba is a unique island full of interesting sights and sounds you cannot experience anywhere else in the world, but what it’s sometimes easy to forget is that there’s also a lot of exciting activities off the island – in the expanse of Caribbean waters that surrounds it. From fishing to scuba diving, Cuba has all kinds of attractions for people to enjoy just off the coast – here are some of the must-dos.

Try Your Hand at Scuba Diving in Cuba

Scuba diving in Cuba is amongst the very best in the world – all tastes are catered for and whether you’re a first timer looking for lessons, or a veteran looking to explore sunken wrecks and caves, the island has got you covered. The top spots for scuba diving in Cuba are Cayo Coco, Maria La Gorda and Santiago de Cuba – depending on the style of diving you’re looking to enjoy. Wherever you go though, you can expect to see hundreds of tropical fish and colourful types of coral – the kind of thing it’s well worth investing in that underwater camera for!

Sample Surfing for the First Time

While Cuba holidays aren’t always associated with surfing, some good practice can be had, especially if you’re on the island in the winter months of September to December – and maybe a little later if you’re inexperienced and looking for smaller waves. The east coast of the island offers the best waves, generally speaking, though it’s by no means the only spot! Be sure to bring your own board, as you’ll struggle to find one to use there.

Relax With a Spot of Fishing

Ernest Hemmingway popularised fishing on the island during his infamous stay in Cuba and many people are keen to follow in his footsteps. He used to fish for marlin out of Havana, but also was known to explore the North West coast at Cayo Guillermo. Cayo Coco is another good spot, but unlike in other countries fishing is legal across the island so find the best location for yourself and share your anecdotes with fellow Cuban fishermen!

Swim with Dolphins

Swimming with dolphins is something of a life changing experience for many, and certainly joining the graceful mammals underwater is breathtaking, once you get past the initial fear factor! If this sounds like your dream Cuba holiday activity, then the resorts of Varadero and Holguin are where you should head. From there, you can take special trips out to sea, allowing holiday makers to get closer than ever before to the charming creatures.

Explore the Aquatic World With a Snorkel

If you can’t quite bring yourself to take a series of diving qualifications, then snorkelling is an easier option with less training required. There are a number of good spots where you’re guaranteed to see some interesting sea life – Guardalavaca, Cayo Coco and Playa Jibacoa. The majority of beaches in Cuba will offer snorkeling of some kind, but if you’re serious about it, these really are the best spots.

Don’t worry if this list leaves you cold. There are all sorts of Cuba holiday activities for you to take part in that don’t involve you getting near any water. From salsa to cigar factory tours, a holiday on the island has you covered, even if you don’t fancy surfing or scuba diving in Cuba.

About the Author:

Emma Lelliott is the general manager of Captivating Cuba, an independent Cuba holiday specialist. With offices in Havana and the UK, Captivating Cuba are experts in putting together the very best holidays spent
scuba diving in Cuba
.

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com – Off the Island: The Best Water Based Activities in Cuba

DIY Wavebox / Wavemaker

2 1300GPH CORAL AQUARIUM FISH PUMP WAVE MAKER POWERHEAD

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55 Gallon Marine Noob?

I am going to start a 55 gallon marine tank after years of having freshwater, Any advice would be great for the most part I want it to be a clownfish pair and some others that can live w/ them. I plan on having live sand, and rock mostly fake coral but some live and a canister filter, and wave maker anyhting I need to add or subtract? please help w/ picking fish!
I was planning on getting an anemone for the clowns and eventually put in some live coral after it has been up for a while and I feel comfortable I have been researching but cant find solid answers on what types of filtration are best

I keep both saltwater and freshwater tanks (several of each, actually), and once you get the tank set up, they’re not much more difficult than freshwater if you’ve planned it properly. Since you already have some freshwater fishkeeping experience first, that will help, or all that I’m about to tell you may seem a bit overwhelming. There is a little more equipment, the water chemistry is a bit more involved, and any of the “specialized” materials (and the fish) for saltwater tend to be more expensive. But since you already have a tank and equipment you want to convert to salt, that will save on some of the expense.

The type of tank you’re planning is what saltwater aquarists refer to as a fish-only with live rock, which gives you added biological filtration, but without the lighting and stricter mainentance of a full reef setup (which can be the most difficult and IS definitely the most expessive type). That’s not to say you can’t start with a fish-only, then add other items to the same tank as you get some experience and want to try more organisms.

A 55 gallon is a good starter size, since the larger of a tank you can use, the better – saltwater fish tend to be larger and more territorial/aggressive than traditional freshwater “community” fishes and more like cichlids in their behavior. Some planning is necessary on just what you can keep together. With a larger tank, you have more options that are open to you. The best way to determine the tank size, though, is to research the fish you want first, to be sure they are all compatible, their adult sizes, and the minimum tank size needed for each, and plan the tank and equipment from there. Since you’re starting with a 55, you need to work backward and make sure the fish you choose will be comfortable in it through adulthood.

If you need to get a stand for the tank, try to get solid wood. The particleboard stands won’t hold up if they get wet and the glue separates, and the iron/metal stands will corrode if any salt gets on them (or, if you already have one of the metal or particleboard stands, just use a flannel-backed tablecloth under the tank to protect the stand from splashed water).

Some of the other items you’ll need to have:

FILTER: You’ll want to make sure your filter is properly sized (filters at least 5x-10x the tank volume per hour – check the gallons per hour rating). A cannister is a good one to use, and in the future, you may want to consider adding a wet/dry trickle filter or a refugium – these add water volume as well as filtration, but they’re not absolutely necessary. It will give you a “added” tank though where you can put a fish that’s being a bully, or a place to raise some small invertebrates (shrimp, amphipods, or copepods or marine algae) that you can use to feed your fish. Unless you’re using a fine sand or oolite substrate, you can also use an undergravel filter to supplement filtration, but I’d suggest powering it with a reversible powerhead to blow the water up through the substrate (prevents stuff from building up under the filter and clogging it). Again, this type of filter isn’t 100% necessary.

POWERHEAD(S): To provide more water circulation in hard to get to places. This also helps circulate dissolved oxygen to the bottom of the tank. Have at least two for a larger tank. I’d assume this is what you’re planning to use the wavemaker to operate. The wavemaker itself isn’t necessary to have unless you’re planning a reef tank – the corals appreciate the change in flow which more closely simulates ocean movement, and it keeps small food items in suspension for a longer time.

HEATERS: For a 55 gallon saltwater tank I’d suggest getting 2 and putting one on each end. This will provide more even heating, and your tank has a back-up if one heater gives out. Figure the correct size as 5 watts per gallon (for a single heater) divided by 2 (if using 2 heaters). If you need to heat the water more than 10 degrees above the room temperature, go one wattage size higher.

LIGHTING: If you never want anything but fish, you can use the standard lighting and hood made for your tank. You might want to upgrade the lamps to a 10,000K tube or a 50/50 actinic to produce a more “marine” look. If you’re going to try corals, anemones, etc., go with a compact fluorescent, metal halide, T-5, or combo system – these will provide more intense light that these organisms need for photosynthesis.

SUBSTRATE – you want something made of aragonite to help keep the pH from changing, I like the smaller shell material that Carib-Sea puts out – it doesn’t have to be live sand, either. Some folks like crushed coral, but the particle size is bigger than I like, and it tends to have a lot of dust that never rinses completely out. Another very fine grained material is oolitic aragonite (looks like small white balls) and aragonite sand. Here’s an idea of the materials available: http://www.caribsea.com/pages/products/dry_aragonite.html While it’s possible to keep a marine tank with regular aquarium gravel or no substrate, the aragonite will keep the pH from falling below 7.8 (it should be 8.2-8.4) and this can make the difference in the survival of your fish/organisms. If you’re planning to use live rock in the tank, using live sand isn’t necessary – the bacteria from the rock will colonize the sand in time – and it will cut the cost of the substrate by about 1/2. It may just take a lttle longer for your tank to cycle.

SALT MIX: If you’re only keeping fish, you can go with one of the less expensive brands of synthetic sea salt. If you get any invertebrates (shrimp, snails, crabs, corals, anemones, etc.), switch to a better quality mix before you add them. These cost a little more, but you won’t need to be using additives for the trace elements they need either.

HYDROMETER: This measures the amount of salt that’s dissolved in water. There are two kinds you can get, one made of glass that floats on the surface (more accurate, but easy to break) and a plastic container that has a needle that rises and falls as the amount of salt changes (less accurate, bubbles attaching to the needle gives false readings). For fish only, you want the specific gravity to read 1.020 – 1.026. If you’re keeping inverts, you want it to be 1.024 – 1.026.

WATER TESTING KIT: minimum of pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate.

CLEANING SUPPLIES: elbow length gloves, gravel vacuum, 5 gallon bucket, large plastic container and powerhead for mixing the salt (to be done well ahead of water changes), algae scraper, razor blades (for coraline algae and diatoms that like to attach to the glass).

WATER CONDITIONER: for removing chlorine or chloramine from your tap water (unless you plan to use a reverse osmosis filter or buy RO water, which is preferred for a reef tank).

The following are optional, but strongly suggested:

PROTEIN SKIMMER: This removes dissloved and small organic materials that would normally contribute to the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in your tank. Not 100% necessary for fish-only tanks, but will be handy if you have inverts to keep up good water quality by removing organic materials that become nutrients for algae. These don’t replace “regular” filters, but compliment them, so I’d continue to use the canister. NOTE: There are units that incorporate both a skimmer and filter into one piece of equipment – some even have a UV sterilizer built in: http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/ViaAquaMultiSkimmer.html

GLASS COVER: This reduces evaporation and keeps the fish inside the tank (some are jumpers), although with a metal halide lighting system, it can overheat your tank.

LIVE ROCK: This gives the tank a more natural appearance, provides hiding places for the fish and inverts, and increases the biological filtration. Not to mention, you get all kinds of cool critters that hitchhike into your tank (shrimp, snails, sea urchins, sea cucumbers, sea stars, etc.).

CHILLER: If you use metal halide lighting, or the water temperature regularly gets above 85o (for corals or anemones, fish can take a little more heat), you may need to invest in a chiller to keep the tank cool. The water temperature should run 76-80oF.

There may be additional items that you could need, such as kalkwasser to raise your pH if you can’t get it to 8.2, but you won’t know these until you get the tank set up and running, and test your water.

You may decide that you want to use a UV sterilizer, but in my opinion, these are unnecessary. They don’t necessarily kill all the parasites and disease-causing organisms, and they only affect free-floating algae, not any that’s attached to your glass, rock, or substrate. The bulbs also need to be replaced yearly. Rather than pay the high price for one of these, you’d do better to buy an inexpensive 10 gallon setup kit and a heater and use these as a quarantine tank.

Before going out and buying all this, I would suggest some reading to see what you’re getting into by keeping saltwater. I did research for almost 2 years before I set up my first tank, and I had about 20 years of freshwater aquarium experience already. You can never do too much research. Rushing into a saltwater setup usually doesn’t give you good results, and the equipment and fish are a little too expensive to be finding out in a few weeks you got something that’s not appropriate for what you want for your tank. I’d also recommend a good reference book for some research. Either of these would be a good one to start with: The New Marine Aquarium by Michael S. Paletta. Microcosm Ltd. ISBN 1-890087-52-1 or The Conscientious Marine Aquarist by Robert M. Fenner. Microcosm Ltd. ISBN 1-890087-02-5

Some web sites you can check out for more info on keeping saltwater are the following:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/
http://www.peteducation.com/index.cfm?cls=16

As far as the fish, what species are good for starters will depend largely on the size of your tank. Even though they are hardy, I recommend against damels, mostly because of their aggressivness – add one of these, and they’ll terrorize any fish you try to introduce later. The exception I’d make here is the green reef chromis.

You’ll want to add the smallest and most peaceful species first, and this will reduce some of the aggression in the tank. It’s a general guideline that you shouldn’t mix fish of the same color or body shape, or different species from the same families to prevent any of the fish from seeing another as a potential rival. There are a few species that can be kept in schools or in mated pairs, but this is the exception rather than the rule. I prefer the smaller semi-aggressive and peaceful species myself, but your preferences might be different. Some of the ones I would recommend as starters are the chromis, a pair of ocellaris clown (the “Nemo” fish – any two juveniles will work because the dominant one will become a female, the other a male), Bangaii cardinalfish (if you have a good saltwater person at your fish store, they should be able to pick out a male and female for you), longnose hawkfish, canary blenny, jawfish, clown goby, scissortail gobies, and firefish. That’s more than you should keep in a 55 as adults, so you’ll need to so a little choosing of which you like, or you might want something completely different. Here are a few links to look at, so you get an idea of care level and prices:

http://www.marinedepotlive.com/
http://www.tropicalfishoutlet.com/
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/categ.cfm?pcatid=15
http://www.saltwaterfish.com/

Even though I provide the fish links for research, I do recommend that you buy your fish locally – you get a better idea of the size and health of the fish, plus you won’t have to pay for shipping. If you do decide to buy online, only buy from a company that guarantees live delivery of the livestock (some also extend the guarantee for a few days after arrival, which is even better!).

Also, keep in mind if you plan to add corals, anemones, snails, shrimp, crabs, hermits, stars, or others in the future, you may want to stick with reef-safe fish from the start.

Good luck with your tank!

ADDITION: If you’re planning for an anemone, at some point you’ll want to get compact fluorescent, T-5, or a combo with metal halide lighting. A canister will still be fine, but cover the intake with some fine mesh – these have a way of wandering around a tank looking for the spot that fits their needs best and somehow tend to get stuck in filters (which can be deadly). I’d also consider the skimmer, although you can hold off on this until you get the anemone if you don’t want to get it right away.

When you do get an anemone, make sure it’s a species that will host the species of clownfish you buy – clowns and their hosts are pretty specific as to which types are compatible: http://clownfish.webreefs.com/clownfish_anemones.php , http://www.carlosreef.com/AnemoneFAQ.pdf

You probably won’t find a single type of filtration that everyone will consider “best”. Some will like a canister because of the versatility of the media while others will like a wet/dry trickle filter – and both give added volume for diluting wastes. But others will say the canister is harder to clean, and the wet/dry becomes a nitrate factory if you don’t clean the bioballs, so maybe a hang-on with a lot surface area for bacteria like the Aquaclears are better, because the media is more accessible and would be cleaned more frequently, even though it doesn’t have as much extra water volume. It’s really a personal decision, but the one that works best for you will be the one that fits your cleaning/maintenance habits best.